Pronovias ushers in new era: strategic vision and global expansion under CEO Marc Calabia

By

Triana Alonso

Rocío ALONSO LOPEZ

Translated by
Roberta HERRERA

Published
Apr 24, 2024

Pronovias is embarking on a new chapter. Following its acquisition by Bain Capital and MV Credit a year ago, the bridal company appointed Marc Calabia as CEO, succeeding Amandine Ohayon. Coinciding with the celebration of the brand's 60th anniversary, for which it presented a fashion show during Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, FashionNetwork.com interviewed the Catalan executive at the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya. The discussion focused on the strategic plan set to unfold by 2027: revamping the brand's image, optimizing its offerings, and strengthening its international presence are key pillars of this strategy.

Born in Barcelona in 1971, Marc Calabia boasts an impressive career in the fashion industry, although his current role at Pronovias marks his first venture into the bridal sector. His career began at Levi Strauss, followed by four years at Inditex. Subsequently, Calabia served as the general manager of The Body Shop in Spain for two years and, in 2012, returned to Levi Strauss as vice president of commercial operations for Southern Europe. After a series of high-level positions at Desigual, Calabia became the general manager of the Springfield brand under the Tendam group.

FashionNetwork.com: How do you reflect on your initial months as the CEO of Pronovias?

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Marc Calabia: These months have been intensely dedicated to the core aspect of our business—the product. Pronovias isn't just a company with strong values; it's a pioneer of the bridal industry as we know it. Renowned for its innovation and trendsetting in the bridal realm, the company prides itself on its profound expertise and craftsmanship in bridal design, characterized by technical precision, creative flair, and groundbreaking innovation, all centralized in our Barcelona atelier—the heart of our operations.

Our strategy is to leverage these core strengths while transitioning them into a contemporary framework that resonates with the modern woman. This entails adopting a fresh aesthetic and a more current stylistic approach. Our goal is not merely to maintain our position as the global leader but to redefine the benchmarks of the industry.

FNW: With such a rich background in the broader fashion industry, how are you navigating this new chapter in the bridal sector?

M.C.: Transitioning into the bridal industry presents both challenges and opportunities. This role is my first within the bridal sector, and it's intriguing, especially as I've witnessed Pronovias' evolution over the past 25 years. Despite the differences in product type and consumer engagement that bridal offers compared to general fashion, there are similarities in operations, such as sourcing and product development.

A significant adaptation for me has been understanding the bridal purchasing experience, which is deeply emotional—a stark contrast to the often transactional nature of fast fashion. We're actively redesigning this experience to be more aspirational, enhancing the emotional journey for our clients.

FNW: How can you introduce disruptive elements into what is traditionally a conservative industry?

M.C.: The bridal industry is evolving from its conventional roots. Disruption can be achieved through innovative design elements that challenge traditional volumes and silhouettes. By moving away from established bridal norms such as mermaid or ball gown styles and introducing fresh, avant-garde silhouettes, we're paving the way for a new era of bridal fashion.

FNW: Does this directional shift imply a repositioning of the Pronovias brand?

M.C.: Not necessarily a repositioning, but an evolution. We are grounded in the timeless values of Pronovias but presented through a modern lens. Pronovias is already a leader in the premium luxury bridal segment, and our focus is on enhancing how these values are conveyed to align with contemporary trends and expectations.

FNW: How is this evolution reflected in the brand's imagery?

M.C.: This shift is perceptible across our branding channels, from the nuanced treatment of our logos to the color palettes we employ—shifting from traditional golds to more subdued grays and blacks. This refined aesthetic will permeate all bride touchpoints, ensuring that each interaction with the brand reflects a modern, sophisticated ethos. We aim to portray the bride as an embodiment of her unique personality, moving beyond the conventional bridal clichés to showcase a more personal and distinctive narrative.

FNW: With recent changes in ownership and leadership, how is Pronovias adapting to this new phase?

M.C.: The transition to Bain Capital in December 2022 initiated a series of strategic changes at the management level, including my appointment. We've also revitalized our leadership team, which now includes new roles in marketing (María Muntaner), product direction (Gemma Ruiz), and a combined finance and operations function (Francesco Guidotti).

This refreshed leadership framework supports a dynamic approach to product direction, emphasizing the distinct aesthetic and identity of each brand within our portfolio rather than a centralized creative command. We don't have a creative director in charge of the six brands. This structured yet flexible approach allows for creative freedom within a clearly defined framework, ensuring that each brand under the Pronovias umbrella can articulate its unique style and DNA effectively.

FNW: After working for companies during economically prosperous times, you've joined Pronovias in a period of transformation. What challenges does this represent?

M.C.: It signals a period of change, transformation, and embracing risks. The years 2023 and 2024 are a transition phase. In bridal fashion, we traditionally launch one collection annually, unlike the bi-annual releases typical in mainstream fashion, which offers broader flexibility. These two years are crucial for implementing necessary changes, with expected results starting in 2025. We're currently finalizing our strategic plan for 2025 to 2027.

FNW: What are Pronovias' growth opportunities?

M.C.: A key focus is to distinctly define each brand within our portfolio to prevent style overlap. We are market leaders almost everywhere we operate, particularly strong in Southern European markets like Spain, Italy, and France. The United States, being the largest global bridal market, presents substantial growth potential not just in the premium luxury segment (dresses priced at over 2,000 euros) but also in more affordable categories. Similar opportunities exist in markets such as Germany or the UK. The challenge lies in strengthening our leadership in Southern Europe and expanding in markets with available market share.

FNW: What strategy will you use to achieve this, and what role will online sales play?

M.C.: While online is critical in bridal, it's predominantly non-transactional, serving as the initial touchpoint for brides. In the U.S., there's still room to grow in wholesale, which is our initial focus. Once we establish proper distribution, we'll look to expand our retail presence. Currently, with six stores in the U.S., expanding our store network remains a future possibility.

FNW: What about the Asian market?

M.C.: Asia is intriguing. Western-style weddings are rapidly increasing there. However, each market demands a tailored approach. For instance, China predominantly features a rental market, which doesn't align with our current business model. Other markets like Japan, Korea, and the Philippines could potentially be explored through franchised or distribution models, offering genuine growth opportunities.

FNW: How does sustainability integrate into your business strategies?

M.C.: We adhere to all international regulations but aim to adopt a unique perspective. Wedding dresses are more akin to art pieces, cherished and preserved for a lifetime, rather than typical fashion items. The concept of dress reuse is something we're exploring. Unlike fast fashion, where garment turnover is high, bridal fashion involves selling a piece of personal legacy.

FNW: Looking forward, are there plans to acquire new brands or launch new ones?

M.C.: We have no current plans for new acquisitions. We believe our existing product portfolio is sufficient. However, we are open to new collaborations. For instance, in our 2025 collection, besides partnerships with Vera Wang and Georgina Chapman for Marchesa, we introduced a capsule collection with Elisabetta Franchi. Pronovias thrives within a capsule ecosystem, allowing us to cater to diverse consumer demands efficiently.