Nicola Bijan launches NB44 brand on membership model

By

Chenu Alexis

Published
May 8, 2024

His name probably rings a bell. Nicola Bijan is the son of Bijan Pakzad, an Iranian immigrant who founded the luxury fashion house House of Bijan in 1976 on Rodeo Drive. A famous location in Los Angeles, it has become the preferred fashion store of the world's wealthiest businessmen and every U.S. president. Head of House of Bijan since 2011, Nicola Bijan now unveils his own brand NB44. A brand inspired by innovation, luxury and sustainability, whose collections are reserved for its members. FashionNetwork.com talked with Bijan to discuss the strategy and content of his project.

FashionNetwork: What direction did you set out to create this brand?
 
Nicola Bijan: NB44 represents a longstanding creative vision of mine, aiming to redefine luxury with a focus on innovation, quality, sustainability, and community. The clothing I design not only reflects the modern world but also maintains a timeless elegance, offering something I believe is missing in today's luxury market. My collections are crafted with individual members in mind, and delivered in a convenient and contemporary fashion. Currently, I don't see any other brand in the luxury market delivering the design quality, service, and experience that we give to each of our members. 

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FNW: NB44 is a unique brand that requires membership. Why this positioning?
 
N.B: The ability to create a connection between the brand and the member, like part of a tribe, while being a digitally native business, adds to the unique next-generation approach to luxury that NB44 provides. Although we are a modern company in many ways, we value old-fashioned principles. The people who purchase our clothing should experience a service, once commonplace in the luxury industry but now, sadly, the exception rather than the rule. I aim to disrupt that.
 
FNW: Can a membership model be seen as exclusionary?
 
NB: Choosing a membership model allows us to maintain exclusivity and high standards of service and quality. It also cultivates an important aspect of the brand: community. As an example, we recently hosted our first annual 4/4 Party at our design studio in Beverly Hills. It was a fantastic evening where members from around the world interacted—some reuniting with old friends and others meeting for the first time. It was amazing to see such a diverse group connect and bond over their membership in the brand. For instance, members from Dallas met those from San Francisco; some had heard of each other, while others had attended the same high school! This sense of connection is a key benefit of our membership model. It's important to understand that our aim isn’t to be exclusionary; it's actually just the opposite. 

FNW: What does NB44 mean? 
 
N.B: The name 'NB44' combines my initials with the number 44, which holds great personal significance for me. It is my lucky number, one that I see everywhere—on clocks, license plates, phone numbers, and even street addresses. It is also considered by many to be an 'angel number' and I believe it represents someone watching over me. That someone being my late father and mentor, whose birthday coincidentally falls on 4/4. 

FNW: What kind of men does NB44 target?
 
N.B.: My team and I often discuss who the NB44 man is. While we utilize our expertise and knowledge to create unique, high-quality outfits designed specifically with our individual members in mind, we do have a general idea of whom we are designing for. The NB44 man is discerning; his time is incredibly valuable. Although he can shop from virtually any brand, he places a high value on exclusivity, quality, and sustainability. His clothing should empower him without being overpowering. I believe there are too few options for dynamic, influential men who want to look elegant and feel their best without appearing overly traditional or overly trendy. The understated yet instantly recognizable design and quality of NB44 speaks directly to their needs. The NB44 man commands respect, and by the way he deserves it.
 
FNW: What is your brand distribution strategy?
 
N.B: NB44's products are only available to NB44 members. While initially focused on the U.S., NB44 aims to expand globally, adapting our model to meet the unique needs of international markets. As a digitally native brand, we have the capability to offer my designs and our services to a worldwide audience. Even now, in our first year, we have members in over 26 cities worldwide from Monaco to Dallas, Singapore to Nashville. This global reach is a testament to the digital world that NB44 was born into, rather than one we had to adapt to fit.

FNW: Is a physical store a possibility in the short or middle term? 
 
N.B: Absolutely! We have seen how our members enjoy visiting our design studio in Beverly Hills, and we are very eager to expand this concept to more locations globally. The atmosphere should feel more exclusive than a traditional retail store; it's a safe place where people can come to interact with the collections, collaborate on what will be delivered in their upcoming collections, and even take a look at what other members are receiving. I think that this homelike environment strengthens the brand's relationships with members and also enables experience-driven events. I would love to open more studios around the world without a doubt. In terms of neighborhoods, we will follow the data and prioritize the locations where we see our largest cohorts of members.

FNW: What type of manufacturers and fabrics did you choose for NB44?
 
N.B: Everything is designed in Beverly Hills, and made by hand in Italy. Our products are made by artisans, many of whom represent second and third generations in their craft. We are committed to supporting these artisans, helping to preserve and even expand their traditional methods amidst a shift in the luxury industry toward less sustainable manufacturing practices. For fabrics, we've chosen sustainable, high-quality materials with an emphasis on going above and beyond. Where most brands might use nylon, we opt for waterproof silk; instead of a standard wool, we select baby cashmere. We also innovate with new materials such as mycelium leather. Every aspect of our production is crafted to be both luxurious and environmentally conscious. Like my father before me, I believe that how you do business is just as important as the business you do.
 
FNW: How did you approach sustainability for NB44? 
 
N.B: Sustainability is at the core of NB44, built on a foundation of innovative, high quality, eco-friendly materials, optimized supply chains, and ethical manufacturing practices. We are at the forefront of using innovative materials such as mycelium leather and ensure all animal-derived products are sourced humanely from animals that have completed their natural life cycles. Our commitment extends beyond our products to foster a sustainable lifestyle within our community. We aim to cultivate lasting relationships with our members, encouraging the ownership of garments from one generation to the next, thus preventing our clothing from ending up in landfills. Our use of aluminum reusable collection cases, which are delivered and picked up via white-glove service, reduces the need for disposable shipping materials and elevates the customer experience. Additionally, we support multigenerational artisans, investing in handcrafted goods over mass-produced items, again embracing old-fashioned principles of quality and craftsmanship that are becoming increasingly rare in today's market.